Perched delicately on the walls of Castelo Sao Jorge in Lisbon is a place of luxury and beauty without being overbearing where stone corridors lead to magically lit rooms, where reflections of an organic garden dance in a black marble pool, where a silent chapel beckons to offer a prayer, where a traditional bath tub still sits well preserved, where blue tiles adorn the walls, where two libraries overflow with books, where the towers from 123 BC still stand gracefully decanting the history.
Palacio Belmonte, a luxury palace hotel in Lisbon’s old town channels the Portuguese roots in every sense. Some hotels print out thick padded information books but at Palacio Belmonte the palace speaks for itself. It also speaks of the Portuguese, Moorish and Roman history. Spending even a day here is akin to recapturing the past and that glory. With its exclusive 10 suites each named after revered Portugese idols, the palace spread over 37,000 square meters offers utmost exclusivity and authentic experience. Each suite has a different layout and offers a different view, but the authenticity remains common to them all. Concealed behind the enigmatic red wooden door on the highest hill in Alfama, this palace is made for superlatives and deserves a sparkling epithet.
Palacio Belmonte history
We were given an extended tour by Farhan who also briefed us over the history of Palace, the first part of which was built in 1449 over ancient Roman and Moorish fortifications. Later the Portuguese explorer, Pedro Alvares Cabral known for discovering Brazil added more space and hosted lot of famous icons like Vasco da Gama. One thing that caught our eye during the tour was the blue azulejos tiles and with over 30,000 of them ordered by the Belmont family they could be found everywhere in the palace preserved well. Daily scenes from lisbon were immortalised on these white tiles painted in blue and a story carefully woven into each panel. The most impressive of which we saw in the music room. But they are not the only piece of history in the Palace, there is also a dated bath tub, iron grills that were common to the windows of most houses back then. Then there is a touch of modern with a painting emblematic to the entrance door in red, there are gaint glass frames of golden grains. The sense of being surrounded by opulence is even more evident in the large dining hall, the ballrooms and the oak flooring that runs all along.
Exceptionally well designed and personally curated by the owner,Frederic Coustols who put his knowledge to restore this palace. His unerringly sense of style can be seen on every turn and corridor of the hotel. He was careful enough to only bestow luxuries that fit well and did not in anyway damage this fragile piece of history. So its unsurprising to find no elevators or air conditioning, instead there are stone staircases and windows that ventilate perfectly well. Life here revolves around the essence of Lisbon itself. The architecture of the palace inspired from the yellow of Lisbon’s famous trams, the red from the terracotta roofs of the buildings and the blue azulejos that can be found everywhere in the Palace.
There is also an organic garden with orange trees and mediterranean herbs and so everything served on breakfast platter was guaranteed to be organic and fresh. The private terrace where the breakfast was immaculately put together looked out to the sea while the old town of Alfama bathed in morning light. With the soft breeze and a warming sun we could easily forget we were in the middle of the hustle bustle of old Lisbon.
Bartolomeu de Gusmao Suite
Our suite, Bartolomeu de Gusmao was a world within itself with copious amount of space spread over four different levels complete with a living, bed, bath a kitchen. The colors were very earthy and there was an old world feel to the decor. Entering through the door, we crossed a corridor gleaming with light and the granite bath room. On the next level was a unique orthogonal living room with stone love seats along the wall which left us in awe. Of course a part of the impact was derived from the novelty of looking out from this minimalist fantasy of our suite through the white washed windows. Every window here was an invitation to look out. Another staircase led to the bedroom that continued to hold the same earthy tones in orange. Just outside the door was the last winding staircase leading to the terrace, the view from here was even more glorious with a panoply of domes and terracotta roofs of Alfama gleaming in the sun.
By evening we curled up in the wooden chairs reviving thoughts of how this place has come to what its today, a palace which Earl and now a luxury hotel owned by Frederic. Thoughts then drifted back to the dusking sun leaving golden streaks on the river Tagus and slanting long shadows on walls of the castle before setting behind the red roof hatches. The Ponte 25 de Abril bridge lit in fading lights took over the horizon as the night got darker.
We dined at the Portugese restaurant Chapito for our first evening as per the recommendation of the well informed staff. But for days when you don’t want to leave the privacy of your suite, the cook can dole up an elaborate or a delicate meal per your choice. which can be enjoyed with fado music by one of the local artists in the suite. When you wish to step out, the Palacio offers tailored services to experience the best of Lisbon and Portugal.
Hospitality here is a way of life, from serving up private breakfast, discrete room service, Michellin dinners on order to the local curated tours like unique architectural features of old Lisbon, your own private Fado singer, a special day out with wine, olive oil tastings and Lusitano horses in the Alentejo.
What we love
- The hotel’s perfect location within walking distance of Alfama’s attractions and the night life
- This hotel is a true tribute to sophisticated opulence. It’s one of the most beautifully designed hotels we’ve ever visited.
- The suites that brim with light, history, authentic furnishings and make for a romantic escape.
- Great hospitality and service that is welcoming.
- The magnificent book library, infact two.
- The over 300 doors and windows percolating light and breeze.
- The delicious organic breakfast served on the private terrace by a seemingly invisible staff.
What to know
- The hotel is restored from a palace and there are no elevators, so expect some walking and lot of getting lost in the huge palace.
- There isn’t a typical restaurant but the in house Michellin starred chef can cook up any meal upon request.
- The access to the hotel is through a cobbled stone street, plan for it if driving to the hotel. The hotel offers a dedicated chauffeur to ride you in and out of the palace.
- There are only 10 suites in the palace, make an early reservation to grab the special moments.
We would like to thank Palacio Belmonte for hosting us during our stay.
