Kayaking a craft in the fjords of Reine, Lofoten Islands

That evening we made our second drive to the little red office of Reine adventures after our plans were being shooed away the previous day by virulent winds. Looking at the sea spreading right across, the turbulent waters appeared no different to yesterday’s. We were surprised when the guide, Niklas informed us that paddling would infact be possible. Reine adventures happens to be the only company offering guided kayaking tours around the Lofoten islands. We were the most inquisitive about the midnight kayaking trip which included a hike to the Bunes beach to see the midnight sun cast its spell.

Our guide sized our kayaks, adjusted the foot pedals and handed us over a not so glamorous Grannie skirt that would help keep clear the waters from getting in the kayak. A quick briefing about steering the kayak, the rudder and paddles followed. I have kayaked before in the lakes of Seattle but sea kayaking is a different beast altogether with winds splattering salt water on the face, waves rocking the kayak madly and shaking our confidence along. After days of backpacking in the lofoten islands we were prepared to taste yet another adventure.

A short video of us kayaking in Reine fjords

In our two person kayak we were going about paddling when our first hurdle came up, crossing a narrow bridge that could barely fit a kayak if put sideways. We could hear our guide instructing us to lower the paddle to the right side seeing us  drifting to the left. In all the frenzy going on we shoved our paddle rushedly into the turbulent sea but on the wrong side. The kayak lost all the momentum and came to a grinding halt just under the bridge. The nose was just inches away from the pale concrete of the bridge when our guide gave a push and we managed to get across. After doing so bad in the first few minutes of kayaking, we got further instructions from Niklas on how to turn the boat, when to paddle and when to just let it drift.

Handsome scenery extended on either sides while the sun drifted in and out of clouds casting a long golden streak on the fjord water. I sat oblivious to all this beauty, trying to keep our craft afloat. It didn’t help that we were two of us in this kayak. I always thought I and Praveen had the best possible frequency, paddling a two person kayak demanded lot more of coordination than what I imagined. In kayaking you are supposed to move the two-bladed paddle in figure 8 motion. This  motion for most means speed, balance, control and more, while for me it meant spilling lot of water over myself. My hands started freezing and the jacket sleeve was dripping water, that’s when I found out that my water proof jacket wasn’t really what I thought it was.

After a lot of frustrating uncoordinated paddling we formulated a plan where Praveen sitting in the rear would try to follow my hand movements. With a revised plan, we could kayak better, the fact that we were now in the wide open sea with no obstacles might have added to our perceived idea of bettered kayaking. Each incoming wave still had the raft bobbing madly and our heart racing. I felt a wave of relief flash when a hamlet of moss covered chalets came up on the horizon. We were approaching the village of Vindstad.

On the other side was the promise of solitude, a water locked hamlet accessible only by a boat that ferries once a day or by paddling like we were. The very few houses scattered amidst scratchy blotches of purple were a recall to a timeless way of life. Everything needed to build these tiny settlement was either ferried from main land or flown in. The effort involved in making life sustainable made this place extraordinary in itself. The mail and groceries arrive on a ferry boat and the skipper seems to magically know to deliver them by the name tag alone. He also collects the list from the locals for their next delivery. With the ferry being the only connection to the rest of the world, this village is truly disconnected and blends with nature and its resplendence.

We were soon approaching the coastline devoid of people and boats, the water got a deeper shade and the corals became more diverse. The liberating feeling of having the feet on ground and no wavering horizon was thoroughly reliving. We made a quick walk towards Bunes beach. Throughout the way I could feel the unforgettable charm Lofoten exudes. After scoring a great spot on the beach, we sat agasped basking in the midnight sun seeing it tease the horizon, almost kissing it and coming back up with the same glow. The display was nothing short of spectacular. While the sand wasn’t warmest we loved the idyllic calm and peace witnessing the mountains and sea bathed in shades of golden. This was our first time in the lofoten islands during summers and we were still trying to get out of the notion of sun not rising and setting every day but circling overhead.  The sun was somehow charging and giving us the energy to be up this late and better yet exerting physically.  We were not the only ones affected by the extended daylight, the plants here grow disproportionately, almost twice the usual size thanks to the surplus sunshine.

It was most beautiful time of the day, the twilight time when we headed back to Reine unsure if it’s the sunset or the sunrise time. Way back the sea had assumed a different role, the waves got placid, the wind calm, the water glossier. Kayaking now required moderate physical effort and we could peacefully relish the sights and sounds around. In the narrow strip of plastic, we felt the deep visceral connection to nature and the sublime wilderness of Lofoten. It was a calming experience seeing the waterfalls unload in the sea, the fjords mirror the granite mountains that turned from mossy green pastures to a pale black stone towards the top.

We couldn’t help but get enchanted by the spectacle and sound of these mountains and fjords. The full moon rising and the calm fjord mirroring it is a sight I will never forget. It might have been a rough start but encountering the marine life and the beauty of the majestic mountains made it complete. I wouldn’t want it any other way. So engrossed in the beauty I failed to notice how we smoothly crossed the same bridge that gave us such panics on the way up. Soon we reached the shore and offloaded from the kayak.

We walked the kayak back to rack it up and my mind was still going over what we just experienced. “You should try kayaking in the rapids of white waters, its much more fun” said the guide just as I was putting away the life jacket and complimented on how quick we learnt to paddle. Yeah, white water is where I am heading next I repeated to myself in my head on the way back to our car.

Also check out the scenic road trip on the lofoten islands driving the E10 national route.

We are thankful to Reine adventures for being amazing guides and hosting us.